5 Best Sunday Cycle Rides in Mid-Wales

by Jeremy

There are so many superb road cycle rides to be had in mid-wales. The roads are quiet, the area is sparsely populated, there are so many hills with views and valleys with rivers and streams. We really are spoilt for choice on our doorsteps.

Here are some videos to whet your appetite:
> Cambrian Mountains Sunday ride
> Cambrian Coast Sportive 2019

To help you on your way here five of the local riders’ favourites. These rides are suitable for the reasonably fit cyclist who is not afraid of climbing and is looking for a ride that will keep them out most of the day. So get on your bike and see what happens, you won’t be disappointed:

1. Llyn Brianne Loop

Above Llyn Brianne

Using Tregaron as a base, this beautiful circular route takes in hills, valleys, breath-taking views with an excellent lunch stop at Tywi Bridge Inn. Take the mountain road over the Cambrian Mountains towards Abergwesyn before turning off towards Llyn Brianne. The road runs along the Eastern side of the lake, drops down past the dam wall towards Lampeter via lunch/coffee at Tywi Bridge Inn, Pumpsaint, and on to Lampeter. From there its an easy run back to Tregaron along the Teifi Valley.
Distance 80 km; Climb 1570 m.

The Tywi Bridge Inn

2. Elan Valley Lakes

One of the best. Starting at Devil’s Bridge you ride up past The Arch, down through Cwmystwth and up the valley along the Ystwyth river, past disused lead and silver mines before entering the Elan valley. The route takes you past the turn-off to the lakes into Rhayader, where The Old Swan Tea-room welcomes cyclists. Return past the Elan valley visitors’ centre and follow the route along three of the lakes before re-joining the road from Cwmystwyth and returning to Devil’s Bridge.
Distance 71 km; Climb 1756 m.

Elan Valley

3. Nant y Moch & Devil’s Bridge

Devil’s Bridge

Starting in Aberystwyth the route takes in Clarach, the coastal town Borth, Tre’r-dol, Tal-y-bont, the remote Nant-y-Moch reservoir, Devils Bridge and then back to Aber. You will get lovely views of Borth and the coast, after which you’ll make your way back to the main road and head south again to Tal-y-bont. From here its a long climb up an alpine-like road to the top of a valley before circling round Nant y Moch. On to Devil’s Bridge where a well-earned lunch is best enjoyed at Woodland’s Cafe. After lunch the routes crosses the Devil’s Bridge itself leaving you about 20 km back to the start.
Distance 70 km; Climb 1280 m.

4. New Quay for Lunch

New Quay harbour

This ride through the back roads of Ceredigion in the heart of sheep and cattle country. Starting from Tanyresgair the road passes through the villages of Bethania, Cross Inn, Pennant, Ciliau Aeron before climbing up to Dihewyd and on to Madroilyn before aiming for the coast along the top of the hills. New Quay has many good lunch stops with views over the bay and coast line – try The Blue Bell or The Old Watch House (sit outside). Back home taking different minor roads to Bethania before following your footsteps back to Tanyresgair.
Distance 75 km; Climb 1263 km

5. On Top of the World!

Again, using Tregaron as the base, ride along the secondary road to Llandewi Brefi where you then take a minor mountain road towards Ffarmers, very steep. Rather than continuing to Ffarmers itself, you stay on the mountain road which takes you along a ridge well above the Teifi Valley before dropping down into Cwmann and then into Lampeter, where Granny’s Kitchen is a very good place to stop for coffee and or a light lunch. From there its back to Tregaron along the Teifi valley.
Distance 43 km; Climb 680 m.

Leaving Tanyresgair

10 Things to Do on a Rainy Day in Mid-Wales

On the occasional day when its raining too hard to enjoy the usual outdoor pleasures of mid-Wales, there is still plenty to do. You could just spend all day eating & drinking in the many brilliant cafes, pubs & restaurants – but if you want to be a bit more adventurous than that, here are some suggestions. And of course it doesn’t have to be raining to enjoy any of these attractions/activities:

1. GO DOWN A MINE
Reflecting the rich history of mining in the area, you could actually visit 3 different types of mine in one day – slate, silver & gold.

Silver Mountain Experience

a) Corris Mine Explorers (nr. Machynlleth) – experience an old slate mine first-hand www.corrismineexplorers.co.uk
b) Silver Mountain Experience (nr Aberystwyth) – take a tour of an old silver mine www.silvermountainexperience.co.uk
c) Dolaucothi Gold Mine (nr. Lampeter) – underground tours of an old gold mine www.nationaltrust.org.uk/dolaucothi-gold-mines

2. VISIT A MUSEUM
There are many opportunities for delving into Welsh heritage and culture through the ages.
a) Ceredigion Museum (Aberystwyth) – excellent little museum of Welsh life housed in a beautiful Edwardian theatre www.ceredigionmuseum.wales
b) National Library of Wales (Aberystwyth) – housed in an impressive building above “Aber”, the national library puts on exhibitions and art displays as well as specializing in providing material for tracing your Welsh family/property history https://www.library.wales/

National Cycle Museum

c) National Cycle Museum (Llandrindod Wells) – a quirky little museum with an extraordinary number of bicycles (from the oldest to the newest) very well presented http://www.cyclemuseum.org.uk/

d) National Wool Museum (nr. Newcastle Emlyn) – learn about the history of the woollen industry in Wales with demonstrations on original machinery https://museum.wales/wool/

3. VISIT A STATELY HOME
Experience life for the landed gentry in mid-Wales in the past. You can visit 3 well-preserved stately homes in the area – the first is owned by the National Trust and the other two are converted into country hotels, where you can enjoy a meal or a decadent afternoon tea and appreciate the architecture and ambiance.

Llanerchaeron

a) Llanerchaeron (nr. Aberaeron) – an elegant Georgian villa set in the wooded Aeron valley, fully furnished – where you can see how the owners and their staff lived & worked https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/llanerchaeron
b) Nanteos Mansion (nr. Aberystwyth) – a magnificent Georgian mansion now converted into a hotel, retaining all the architectural features. The afternoon teas are highly recommended http://www.nanteos.com
c) The Falcondale (nr. Lampeter) – an Italian-style villa in extensive grounds – now a hotel. Enjoy lunch or tea on the covered veranda https://www.thefalcondale.co.uk/

4. VISIT A CASTLE
Mid-Wales is not over-endowed with castles compared to north and south Wales, but there are a couple worth a visit.

Powys Castle

a) Cardigan Castle (Cardigan) – an 11th century castle in the heart of Cardigan, recently restored https://www.cardigancastle.com/
b) Powys Castle (Welshpool) – a magnificent medieval castle in extensive grounds https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle-and-garden

5. SHOP FOR WELSH ART & CRAFTS
You’ll definitely want to take home some distinctly Welsh art and/or crafts from your trip, and there are several places where you can browse a large selection of good quality products.

Welsh love spoons

a) Rhiannon (Tregaron) – http://www.rhiannon.co.uk/
b) Pennau Crafts (Bow Street, nr. Borth) – http://www.craftshopwales.co.uk/
c) Corris Craft Centre (nr. Machynlleth) – 9 craft studios https://www.corriscraftcentre.co.uk/
d) Pendre Art Gallery (Cardigan)

6. RIDE A STEAM TRAIN
Two steam railways which were built to transport slate to the coast have been restored and now carry tourists. They are probably better on a sunny day for the views, but its something fun to do in the rain to keep dry.

Vale of Rheidol Railway

a) Vale of Rheidol (Aberystwyth) – runs between Aberystwyth and Devil’s Bridge https://www.rheidolrailway.co.uk/
b) Tal-y-Llyn (nr. Aberdovey/Aberdyfi) – runs inland from Twywn Wharf https://www.talyllyn.co.uk/

7. SEE LOCAL PRODUCTS BEING MADE
The making of traditional local products like wool and cheese can be viewed, and a new addition is gin tasting.
a) Teifi Cheese (nr. Llandysul) – watch the cheese-making process http://www.teificheese.co.uk/

Teifi Cheese

b) Curlew Weavers Woollen Mill (nr. Llandysul) – working woollen mill and large shop selling woollen products
c) Dyfi Distillery (nr. Machynlleth) – situated in Corris Craft Centre – Distillery tours and gin tasting https://www.dyfidistillery.com/

8. BROWSE ANTIQUES
Its always worth browsing through local antique shops when you’re on holiday – you never know what you might find. These are large centres where you can spend a fair amount of time.
a) Trecastle Antique Centre (between Llandovery & Brecon)
b) Emlyn Antiques Centre (Newcastle Emlyn)

9. GO TO A MATINEE
There are very good cinema and theatre complexes in Aberystwyth and Cardigan.
a) Aberystwyth Arts Centre (Aberystwyth) – https://www.aberystwythartscentre.co.uk/
b) Mwldan Theatre (Cardigan) – https://www.mwldan.co.uk/
c) …or stay in and watch past episodes of Hinterland, the “noir” detective series which was filmed in locations around mid-Wales!

National Botanic Gardens of Wales

10. VISIT AN INDOOR GARDEN
The National Botanic Gardens of Wales (nr. Carmarthen) has the largest dome greenhouse in the world (covering 3,500 sq. meters) containing a huge collection of Mediterranean and Southern Hemisphere plants https://botanicgarden.wales/

5 Suggested Day Trips in mid-Wales

There is so much to do in mid-Wales (Ceredigion, Powys, Gwynedd) with Cardigan Bay, the Cambrian Mountains and the Dyfi Estuary to see, but here are some suggestions for how to condense it all into 5 day trips…

DAY 1: Cardigan Bay Coast

Aberaeron

Get to know the coastline by visiting the quaint Welsh fishing villages of Aberaeron and New Quay with their traditional multi-coloured houses. At New Quay take one of the dolphin watching boat trips into the bay with a chance of seeing the resident bottle-nosed dolphins and a spectacular seabird city on the cliff face. There are plenty of restaurants many offering local seafood, but I would recommend fish & chips at the famous Harbourmaster in Aberaeron. If you have time in the afternoon its worth visiting the beautiful secluded beaches at Mwnt and Llangranog further south.

 

DAY 2: Devil’s Bridge and Red Kites

Vale of Rheidol Railway

Take the iconic Vale of Rheidol steam train from Aberystwyth to Devil’s Bridge – it’s a leisurely ride with stunning views. At Devil’s Bridge walk the trail down to the spectacular waterfalls and back and treat yourself to a welcome coffee in the cosy log cabin. Take the train back to your car and drive just out of town to Nant-yr-Arian forest in time for lunch in the Visitor Centre overlooking a lake. Then wait for the best experience of your holiday – hundreds of Red Kites and Buzzards gather overhead for their daily feeding time and then swoop down right over your head!

Devil’s Bridge Falls

 

DAY 3: Coastal Path from Aberystwyth to Borth

Aberystwyth

Coastal Path

Drive to Aberystwyth and walk to the north end of the promenade and either climb up Constitution Hill or if I were you take the funicular railway! Enjoy the stunning view from the top before setting off along the well-marked coastal path towards Borth. You can turn around at any time of course. When you get back, its time for a late lunch – how about home-made pizzas at Baravin overlooking the sea. Explore Aberystwyth in the afternoon – lots of independent shops and interesting architecture.

 

 

 

DAY 4: Scenic drive to Elan Valley

Elan Valley

Recognized as one of the most scenic drives in the UK, take your camera with you when you drive into the Cambrian Mountains from Aberystwyth to Rhayader and round the spectacular Elan Valley lakes/reservoirs route. Take a picnic or lunch at the Visitor Centre. On the way back stop at Cors Caron nature reserve for a short walk along the boardwalk. Finish the day with a drink & a meal at the award-winning old drover’s inn The Talbot in nearby Tregaron.

 

DAY 5: Bird-Watching on the Dyfi estuary

Ynyslas dunes

Although this is a day for bird-watchers it can still be enjoyed by non-birders for the scenery and walks available. Pack a picnic and head north up the coast and the first stop is Ynyslas Nature Reserve at the northern end of Borth beach, with its wild sand dunes. Look for waders in the mud-flats at the estuary mouth. Then its on to watch the Ospreys at the Dyfi Osprey Project on a nest platform a few yards away from you (hopefully with chicks). A short drive away is the renowned RSPB reserve of Ynys Hir which was featured on Springwatch. There is a visitor centre and many marked trails and viewing hides overlooking the estuary and ponds. On the way back stop at Pennau Crafts in Bow Street for a welcome cup of tea and Welsh Cakes (like flat scones) or Bara Brith (delicious Welsh fruit cake), and why not buy some of their excellent souvenirs to take home.

Upcycling during our Barn Conversion Project

We were determined at the start of our project to convert the 180 year-old stone barn on our smallholding into two cottages, that we wanted to retain the character of the Welsh barn and not create modern looking spaces which could be anywhere. Building regs restricted how much of the roof and walls we could leave exposed but wherever we could, we did. We also used reclaimed materials (either from the original barn or from local reclamation yards) wherever practical and I think the end result is exactly what we were aiming for. Here’s a description of that process:

Roof
The Stables was the first roof we tackled, it was stripped down completely and reusable slates put aside. We were short about 1000 slates but luckily found enough reclaimed Welsh slates on eBay. The rafters and purloins were retained, as was the ridge beam, hence the wavy ridge line.

The Hayloft required a new A frame and ridge beam and many of the original slate tiles had to be discarded. We managed to purchase reclaimed Welsh slate tiles in very good condition from a reclamation yard.

Floors
We wanted to retain the old look and therefore could not visualise modern wooden or tiled floors, so we opted for the up-cycling route. The wooden floors were reclaimed old pine roof boards which were about 100 years old. We sanded them to get them smooth whilst retaining the holes, knots and other signs of age and then varnished.

 

After redoing the roof we were left with plenty of slate tiles which we wondered if we could use for the floors in the kitchens and bathrooms. Everyone told us this would not work – but we ignored this advice. When laying the slate we ignored the common practice of patterns recurring and ensured there were no repeating patterns at all. The tiles were then sealed.

As the Hayloft was a double story there were the original wooden floorboards of the old hay loft still present, supported by an old tree trunk and a couple of metal props. We kept the old floor, just sanded and leveled it.

Doors
The bathroom doors were a challenge as nothing modern suited an old barn. Back to reclamation yards where we found old ledge & brace wooden doors, again about 100 years which we cut to size and finished with a traditional wax rub.

 

 

 

Internal features
The original barn had external wooden doors which had to be removed, but we didn’t throw them out. Nor did we discard the old tree trunk used to support the floor in the Hayloft. The wood was used to make all the internal lintels, coat hooks, mirrors and window sills.

 

Bedside lights – These were made by us from traditional paraffin lamps. We removed the wicks and adapted the lamps to accept LED candle bulbs.

Bathroom tumbler holders – The two tumbler holders in the Hayloft bathroom are drain pipe brackets.

The coasters and place mats were made by us from the old roof slates.

Old hand cut bolts, nails and hooks – We found numerous old nails and ironmongery which were hand-made. After cleaning them up have left some of these in the beams in the Hayloft.

Furniture & fittings
Most of the furniture for the cottages was bought second-hand locally or from eBay and the aim was to create a cottagey, shabby-chic, rustic look. But all of it is in very good condition and the brand new king-sized beds give it a luxury & “hygge” feel.

All the wrought iron light fittings and a chandelier we had custom-made as modern equivalents would not have worked.

Outside
The wooden signs at the entrance to the car-park were made from left-over reclaimed floor boards.

The external window sills were made from slabs of slate which we managed to find after scouring several reclamation yards.

The flower bed to the left of the Stables front door is the original concrete horse trough attached to the barn.

The metal planter attached to the dividing fence in front of the Hayloft is a sheep feeding trough.

The horseshoes above each of the doors were taken off the original barn doors, so they belong to the horses which have lived in the barn over the years.

10 Best Wildlife Experiences in Ceredigion, Mid-Wales

Because Ceredigion is such a sparsely populated county – population only 73,000 in 700 sq. miles (slightly larger than Greater London which has 8 million people) – it’s a great place to experience wildlife on a daily basis. For instance, it’s not unusual for us to see Red Kites, Buzzards, a harem of Pheasants, a brown hare, a fox and a couple of Ravens on a short walk or cycle to the local shop!

But if you want to discover the best that Ceredigion has to offer, these are the 10 best wildlife & nature experiences in our opinion (in no particular order).

1. DOLPHINS
Cardigan Bay is home to the only resident population of Bottle-nosed Dolphins in the UK. You might be lucky and see them from the shore anywhere along the Ceredigion coast, but the best way to increase your chances is to take one of the dolphin-watching boats from New Quay. Its well worth the ride just for the scenery even if you are unlucky with the dolphins and you’re likely to see an Atlantic Grey Seal or two resting on the rocks as compensation.
Where: New Quay harbour
When: April – October
Link: www.newquayboattrips.co.uk

2. STARLING MURMURATION
Starlings might not strike you as the most interesting or exciting birds, but you’ll change your mind when you see tens of thousands of them flying in fantastic formations, called murmurations. They put on this display over the pier in Aberystwyth as sunset every evening in Autumn/Winter before disappearing under the pier to roost for the night.
Where: Aberystwyth
When: October – March

3. RED KITE FEEDING
This is something not to be missed whether you are a bird/wildlife enthusiast or not. At Nant-yr-Arian Forest, which is managed by Natural Resources Wales, you can watch hundreds of wild Red Kites being fed scraps of fat a few yards in front of you. This happens every afternoon at 3pm in the summer (2pm winter), and the birds from far & wide know what time to start collecting in the surrounding trees – ready to swoop down over your head to the thrown treats. Take your camera.
Where: Bwlch Nant-yr-Arian, east of Aberystwyth
When: all year
Link: www.naturalresources.wales

4. OSPREYS
Ospreys were extinct in Wales until recently when they have started to nest here again at a few protected sites. One of these is the Dyfi Osprey Project south of Machynlleth, managed by the Montgomeryshire Wildlife Trust. This is a superb little reserve with a boardwalk leading to an observatory overlooking the estuary and an osprey nest platform. You are almost guaranteed to see these magnificent birds during the summer months – the pair usually have 2/3 chicks. The nest is also live-streamed.
Where: Dyfi Osprey Project, near Machynlleth
When: March – August
Link: www.dyfiospreyproject.com/

5. EXOTIC BUTTERFLIES
At the Magic of Life Butterfly House you can experience hundreds of huge exotic butterflies and caterpillars in a tropical environment and maybe even witness one emerging from its chrysalis.
Where: Magic of Life Butterfy House, Rheidol Valley (east of Aberystwyth)
When: April – October
Link: www.magicoflife.org

6. BIRD ROCK

Bird Rock near New Quay is a great place to observe a “seabird city” at close range. Guillemots, Razorbills, Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Cormorants and Shags nest on the sheer cliff face, which can be seen from the Wales Coastal Path south-west of New Quay or from one of the dolphin-watching boat trips (see Dolphins above).
Where: New Quay
When: April – July

7. CAMBRIAN MOUNTAINS RARITIES
A drive into the beautiful and remote Cambrian Mountains from Tregaron on the old drover’s road to Abergwesyn could bring you face-to-face with the only known Golden Eagle in Wales. “Eddie” as he/she has been named has taken up residence here and seems to be thriving on the local rabbit population. And in the forests up here there are known to be small populations of Red Squirrels and Pine Martens.

These last three are excellent Bird Sanctuaries/ Nature Reserves which are well worth a visit:
8. YNYS HIR (RSPB), near Machynlleth – on the Dyfi estuary
www.rspb.org.uk/reserves-and-events/reserves-a-z/ynys-hir

9. WELSH WILDLIFE CENTRE (Wildlife Trust), near Cardigan – on the Teifi Estuary
www.welshwildlife.org/visitor-centres/the-welsh-wildlife-centre

10. CORS CARON (NNR), near Tregaron – a rare raised bog habitat
www.naturalresources.wales/days-out/places-to-visit/mid-wales/cors-caron-national-nature-reserve